On a slightly materialistic note, I just want to say how much I love Shu Uemura's skin purifying face oil, the slightly more expensive option to another rather brilliant cleanser by Liz Earle. At the end of a day like today, massaging on the warm oil onto my face and neck is so comforting and reassuring, and when washed off with water the oil, just as the sweat, grime, stress and disappointments of the day, melts away. I'm left with clear skin and mind. It's a luxury that I make sure I can afford, as there are such few in life so easily bought. For friends feeling generous you can find Shu Uemura cleansing oils at most international airport duty free shops on your way to visit me in UB ;)

Reinvigorated

Tonight I went to a lecture organised by NextGen, a movement started by several intelligent Mongolians who believe that the next generation is here already and it's up to us to make change. The speaker was the director of Zorig Foundation, one of the oldest and almost founding  NGO of the democratic civil society movement in Mongolia. The topic was civil society and participation and what this meant for the director and his organisation. The Q&A session naturally opened up much wider discussions from everyone who came and for the first time in a long while since my return I've found my head racing and my blood rushing.

An exercise of the mind, plus a quick swim in the morning for an exercise of the body has given me such a reinvigoration, I'm reminded of why I chose to move back to Mongolia. There exists such energy, passion and drive to do, make, create and leave our mark in history. It's so easy to be absorbed into the struggles of everyday life, and recently with renovations left right and centre, new job and resettling, I am guilty of absorption too. And tonight it was good to let myself think in abstract even for a few minutes, about issues that have real meaning to me. If anyone is aware of the Getting Things Done (GTD) system, then you'll agree that it felt like I had a good old rummage through my Someday/Maybe folder, and flew at 50,000 feet. Once again I'm happy to be here, ready to do my part.

Wealth, or something like it.

An interesting thing I observed yesterday whilst strolling through Khanburgedee Department Store in central UB was the behaviour of a woman and the way she completely berated the sales woman like she was a five year old child that drew on the walls. Apparently the woman wanted two shirts and asked for them to be put aside over the phone and when she came to pick them up the salesperson brought out one. And so she was off! She wanted two but only got one! How hard is it to bring out two shirts not one?! Did the salesperson not understand her?! Why is it so difficult to get what she asked for?! Go and get her the second shirt for god's sake! As it turned out, there was only one left anyway, and before the salesperson got the chance to find out what happened and explain to her, she sounded like a headmistress that I'd rather not cross in the hallway. This woman was really well dressed, had the expensive hand bag and the blow dry, and yet not a single polite bone in her body. I couldn't believe her reaction and her plain rudeness. Honestly, it was just a shirt. 

Normally I accept that politeness in Mongolia is ranked pretty down on the chart of everyday life experiences. There was even a survey that listed Mongolia as the tenth most unfriendly travel destination recently which I personally think displays the vast difference in some people's opinion of Mongolia as the friendliest place to travel (countless travel guides please step forward) and the unfriendliest place to live (countless residents of Mongolia step forward). It may be simpler to think that those with wealth and opportunities are likely to have better, happier and more fulfilled lives and those living in relative poverty, with little chance of vastly improving their lives (in monetary terms) would be frustrated with life and what little it affords them, and thus display varying behaviours. Ofcourse this is a gross generalisation but I watched a video today also based on an extensive research which shows the total opposite.

Granted the research took place in the United States, it explained the behaviour of the woman in my story, where the wealthier you are the less appealing your behaviour in society and towards others. I encourage you to watch this video and maybe ponder for a while. My first question was how to further research and understand the changes in behaviour as the person goes through different stages of wealth in their lives. It's not necessarily the case where you are born poor and thus die poor. And same goes for the wealthy. In the case of Mongolia I think it'll be particularly interesting where wealth seems to be created as quickly as it is destroyed. At a time of economic development risky financial investments, corruption, inadequate legal systems can make or break a man/woman. Which makes me wonder, how this fluctuation in the wealth of Mongolian society is affecting society and social norms? Is it acceptable to be embarrassingly rude to those who happen to be in the service industry? Is it ok for those who serve to accept that the 'rich' are rude and thus be it? Further, is it ok for those standing by to think that it's normal? The stereotype of a successful business man/woman here is someone who drives an expensive car, talks on their mobiles when driving, barks orders even at restaurants and scowls, a lot. I wouldn't want my child to grow up thinking that being successful/rich/even famous gives them the liberty to treat others with little regard, but sadly it's a common perception. And I suspect that many of these wealthy Mongolians don't know any other way to react or behave in society because there is only one stereotype. By being polite, showing consideration and empathy may be seen as a weakness, and a sign of being poor(er). In a time and place where being wealthy is the primary accomplishment, I wish to see a future where accomplishment is personal and wealth is not entirely numerical.

Back in UB

It's been two weeks since I've returned to Mongolia and already it feels like a year. Despite the flaky skin, dusty shoes and UHT milk it's good to be back! The familiar roads, frowns and a fist full of tugrugs make me feel welcome. And most importantly it's good to be with my husband and son again.

Much has changed in Mongolia in the last few months and I feel like I'm struggling to catch up. The most exciting event so far has been the presidential election, which went smoothly and the results reassuring, but there's been more substantial changes taking place also. I've noticed many new roads, buildings and shops, as well as a general shift towards a much lovelier atmosphere. Maybe it's the weather and the impending Naadam festivals or my suspicions of an improving UB being proven right. All the same, I'm yet again convinced that the move back is the right decision.

The next few weeks will be a bit of a whirlwind I imagine, with a new job to settle into and an office to furnish, a new flat to redecorate and also furnish, and the big and all important event of sending Arvis to nursery full time. I've found a montessori that feels good and we plan to start next week. Exciting times ahead!

What I'm missing though, and look forward to again, is having a sense of being 'settled' in. The finality of moving back to UB was a bit strange at first but we all know that home is where you find yourself with the people you love and enjoy. So here's  re-discovering this old city of mine, calling it home again, and to re-making those connections.

In the meantime, happy to be with this little guy